3.25.2007

Manos De Compasión Milagro Project

This is the Milagro Project. I went to Milagro to take photos of fifty children that Manos of Compasión will be feeding on a regular basis starting this year. These are the sponsor pages that I photographed and designed for them. This is the type of work I love to do. These were a few of my favorite photos. Hope you enjoy them. If you have comments, please send me an email. Shlahaha@yahoo.com.



























Legal or Illegal

Hello again everyone. I have been a bit preoccupied since the last time we spoke and my vacation to the public hospital. I have actually been busy vacillating between leaving the country or staying mojado, or illegal. See, when you enter Central America your visa is a tourist visa and lasts only 3 months. I have been here five, but left in December to renew the visa. To renew, you only have to leave Honduras for four days and then re-enter, thus successfully renewing your time.

This was a great option three months ago in December when I was able to go to Nicaragua, El Salvador, or Guatemala. Mandatory vacation. Darn. But now, these countries are not good enough. I must now vacate myself to a country twice removed leaving me Mexico or Costa Rica. Not that this is necessarily bad either, but it is twice as long of a trip in either direction and maybe three times the amount of cash that I don’t have.

I called Elma, a lawyer who was recommended to me, to see if I could get residency here in Honduras. This would eliminate my need to travel every three months, allow me to open a bank account, work, and get internet on my cell phone. Thinking it was a good idea, I called Elma and asked about it. She was happy to help, saying she had a friend in Tegus right now who could swing by and pick up all the necessary paperwork. After thanking her and hanging up, I got four more calls from her. Hello? ‘Brian, this is Elma, how do you spell your name?” Hang up. “Hello?” “ Brian, when is your birthday?” Gone. “Hello?” “Brian, How long do you want to stay in the country? Ok, Bye.” Ring. “Brian, what is your passport number?”

At this point I was getting worried she was gonna call me all afternoon for every question on the form. I didn’t know how long it was, but the phone stopped ringing after four. She told me that she would give me a call when things were ready and she had something for me. I thanked her and didn’t give it much thought until about two weeks ago.

Looking at my schedule, I remembered that I had an important date coming up in March. What was it? Oh yeah, I’m illegal on the 21st! I called Elma after it had been three weeks. Can’t get a hold of her. Call Frances. She can talk to Elma at church that night. Frances tells me Elma has got something for me; I should go to the office in San Pedro.

“Elma? Hi it’s Brian. I’m in San Pedro. Where is your office located so I can stop by?”
“Um….” She pauses long. “Let me call you back with that in a quick second. I’ll call you back.” What? My lawyer doesn’t know where her own office is located? I get the directions a moment later without a neighborhood or direction for if it is 2nd Street North or Second St South. I didn’t ask for fear she would have to call me back again with the answer. I walked up to 2nd South, and then to Second North. Upon entering the ritzy office building, greeted with cold air and bewildered looks by interns, I asked for Elma. She had left me an envelope with the secretary. I opened it foolishly expecting residency papers to sign. What I found was a one page note of Elma chicken scratch telling me all the documents and things I needed to gather before I applied for residency. Great.

In the Migration office in San Pedro, I desperately ask if I can change my visa because I have work to do. Oh yeah, the week that I have to leave the country, I have to shoot photos of fifty kids for Manos De Compasion and make a video update for Cocal Gracias. The lady at the counter said there was no way to pay. I would need to leave, or I can just stay mojado and pay the fine when I fly out in June. It’s only $100 something for staying two months longer and running the risk of being checked at a police blockade, which they have all the time. Thanks I guess.

I found myself in Tegucigalpa two days before Departure Day, D-Day. I had thought about Migration in Tegus; after all it is the capital. Maybe they could do something more. But then I imagined myself walking in and asking for an extension, them asking me when I had to leave, showing tomorrow, and having them escort me out across the border. I figured I better just hide, but then I didn’t want trouble later when I did get residency. As I discussed the details of my dilemma, pastor Ramon, who stands about five foot nothing and has got a belly half as tall, tells me he’s got a cousin that works in Migration and he can fix the passport issue right away, no problem. It’s settled then, I’ll go tomorrow, my last day.

We arrive at Migration armed with a letter from the Superintendent from the church stating that I need more time to finish helping poor starving kids in Cortes. We are looking around for Ramon’s cousin and cannot find him. We go to the next office and ask only to find out, yeah they know him, but he’s on vacation for two weeks. Ramon is out of answers and gives me a sheepish look. I should have known. Things don’t happen easily here. I go to the window to renew and the lady tells me I gotta pay a fee, but everything looks ok. Where do I pay? I ask. Well, you can pay at Atlantida Bank, or in the airport bank across town, or in Kennedy. There is an Atlantida bank in Migration and ramon suggests we wait there to pay. As we Wait for the windows to open, I peer in. It’s empty, with no computers, no chairs. What it does have is some brooms, broken dry wall all over the floor and saw dust on the counter. “Ramon, this isn’t a bank. It’s a closet. We can’t pay here.” He and two women assure me I can. Finally I ask. No, that bank hasn’t operated in years, a kid tells me. Huh. We high tail it over to Kennedy, the closest bank 40 minutes away by taxi. I place myself in the 20 person line of other foreigners trying to pay fees and finally pay. Back at Migration, I wait twenty minutes for the lady to argue with the old gentleman in front of me about how he must leave to Costa Rica if he wants to come back and stay. There is no way to renew. Frustrated the man moves aside and I walk up. Cheery. Buenas Dias. Aqui estan mis papeles, y my factura del banco. My papers and receipt. Ok. Wow! That was easy! I think. Ok, leave us your passport and take this slip of paper that has your name on it and your passport number. Come back next week and we should have it fixed for you… What! So I return to Tegucigalpa tomorrow for my Identification and in the meantime have a computer printout that I guess means I am legal.

So that is that. Other than traversing the Continent North and South again, I have great news. Joel has been working so hard on the Documentary and the Cocal Gracias Project screenings and there is finally something to show for it. The new website is AhWESOME! I am not kidding. It looks so cool. So, Please everyone, go to the all new website: www.cocalgracias.org and check it out. It is a great way to see what I am working on down here and get a chance to see the Documentary. The premier showing of the film will be at Kung Food in Downtown San Diego, April 1-7. There are seven days to see it, so you have no excuse to miss. We have art work, guest speakers, live music, and of course the documentary. You won’t want to miss it. Whatever night you go I guarantee will me fun. If you cannot make it, you can order the Documentary online from the website and the proceeds go to building the school. Also, for those of you in good old SD, Joel needs volunteer help to run the screenings, and do whatever else needs to be done. If you are interested in getting involved, email him at cocalgracias@yahoo.com I know he would appreciate it.

I am posting the plans for the school we will be building on the blog site, along with a few of my favorite photos for the Manos de Compasion Project. http://ruarkphoto.blogspot.com/

Manos De Compasion is a new project to feed poor children in the town of Milagro. Milagro was wiped out by Hurricane Mitch in 1994, and has barely recovered. Most of the families are single mothers, who work in the factory, or dig in the dump. The few men that are there work in sugar cane production. The area is very poor. Adam and I spent some time there this last week interviewing all the kids and taking their portrait. Take a few minutes to see. There are some I really like.

That’s it for me, so for now. I will be on my way to Tegucigalpa tomorrow. Wish me luck on the buses. Haha. I finally found a company that works…. Thank you for your prayers and support. Oh and if you haven’t written me in a while, or at all, please do so. It has been a lonely week on the internet. J Bye.

Brian

3.24.2007

Don't go to the Hospital

I’ve had a fever before, but this was different. It didn´t seem so bad because I was only about as hot as the stifling air in the room. I noticed my legs were aching a bit like when I hit my growth spurts and I couldn’t sleep; that was the point. I remember urinating that night maybe 6 times, a frequency I have not had before. Around 6 am though, my urination trip had a side excursion as well of a little diarrhea. Odd. Never really had diarrhea, which I can remember.

Thinking I might be getting a bit sick, I took the early bus to the center with Adam, a friend who is living here in Honduras with me for a few months. My thought was to purchase a little of the pink stuff and clear up this little problem of mine.

I ended up getting on the slowest bus alive however. The driver must have been only 17 or 18 and recently new to the route and probably to driving. He certainly looked new to the world. Either the bus lacked proper parts or this kid did not know how to shift into third gear. So in second we cruised from one side of Cortes to the other as if my dying had nothing to do with anything. After such a long ride I was not feeling right. Maybe a bit dizzy? No. Not that. We got off in central park and started walking to Pastor’s house. Aleyda, a friend I haven’t seen in months, ran into us and I immediately latched onto her to support me walking to the church. I was feeling a bit weak.

After apologizing for not visiting Aleyda more, she dropped me at the stairs to the pastor’s house. I climbed with the last energy I had, not realizing it at the time. Upon entering the house, I crashed on the couch face first, declaring my misery to the world. The world being pastor’s wife, sister-in-law, and mother-in-law, burst into laughter over my misery. What did I have, they asked me. I’m dying, I exaggerated. Did I have diarrhea they wanted to know… Well maybe. Then they needed to get more paper for me. More laughing.

Adam left to make some purchases of Pepto pink stuff, Gatorade, suero, Philips manganese laxative, and paper…

Pastor came into the living room to see me. Pastor thinks that any sickness of the stomach can be cured by a bottle of laxative, and a good massage of the bowels. He makes you drink the Philips as he begins to swab everything in your stomach downward. It hurts like heck, but feels strangely good at the same time. So Pastor swabbed me good. Up and down my belly until he was satisfied. He asked if I needed to go to the bathroom. I told him last time he swabbed me and I drank laxative, I still didn’t go to the bathroom for another two days.

I went to lie down in the bed when my hands went numb, like after you sleep on your arm all night and they tingle and splinter back to life. Only this time they didn’t feel like they were coming back to life but more like they were dying out. The tingling increased to pins and needles, and then started in my feet, working its way up my legs. All of a sudden, I realized I couldn’t move my legs or my arms very well. The tingling increased.

Pastor decided we should go to the clinic. I got up to follow him to the car when I collapsed under the weight of myself. Pastor and Adam caught me and pulled me up into a seated position on their arms. Like an injured soccer player who gets carried off the field, I got carried out the door and down the flight of stairs to the black bus. They threw me into the jumper seat in front and Adam scooted in with me.

By now my whole body ached with pins and needles and I had lost control of all functionality. I looked at my hands that were now painfully cramped like lobster pinchers and there was nothing I could do to open them. My feet cramped too. Painful. I was calling out everything that hurt, asking for some relief. Adam massage my feet, open my hand, something.

Why are you doing that to your hand? came the response.
Are you kidding? You think this is a joke? I could be an invalid. I would have said something like this too, but at that moment my tongue went numb and my words only dribbled like spilled grammar.

At the clinic, the doctor was away in San Pedro. Back in the car, we went to the public hospital. After another hustle like a soccer player, they laid me on the table. In came the IV, in came the antibiotic, and the needle to dribble out blood samples into open test tubes like we had in high school, held by glove less hands.

My bed was in a room of seven. I got the first bed. In the corner lay a teenager with Dengue fever, and to my left lay an old man of eighty that wore diapers to defecate himself in bed, who spent his time hacking up whatever was in his throat. When he didn’t hack, he hummed to himself, rocking back and forth. To my right was Jonathan, another teenager, with a kidney stone or something of the like. Anyway, he didn’t look too sick, and we started talking. He loaned me his black shoes every time I needed to use the restroom for the next few days.

The restroom was a sink that barely worked, next to a toilet that never was cleaned, next to a shower that was fed by a broken tube traversing the length of the closeted space at about eye level, just above the dried blood smears on the tile wall that matched the smears below my bed in the other room. The nurse gave me paper for the bathroom the first few times I used it until I realized that you were supposed to bring your own and had Adam buy some. The shower tube was leaking water all over the floor, toilet, and sink. We all used the space. Every sick person in the room. I would go in with Jonathan’s shoes and hike my pants down and then up so as not to wet them in the puddle.

Nothing comes with the hospital. If you want to stay, you provide everything, sheets, pillow, blanket, water, food, toilet paper, everything. I stayed in the bed that did not come with sheets, but which my neighbors from Palermo covered and blanketed. I had three fevers that night, so bad that I was convulsing. The second fever was so bad that the Dengue fever boy loaned me his blanket to keep me warm. But my body came back to life, and in the morning I felt a bit better. I watched the old man cough and hack and defecate and then hum, and watched the Fever kid be visited by the most beautiful girls in the room, and watched Jonathan talk with his parents. About half way through or I don’t know when, they brought in a large woman either with cancer or something wrong with her heart. I could tell you accurately but information second hand in Honduras never is consistent. I watched as they strapped her with oxygen and drew a curtain around her that left enough space to see her terrified eyes. Six hours later, I woke to the sobs of her mother as she caressed her dead daughter. It took six men to lift her onto the metal rack to take her down to refrigeration. I began to cry as I watched the torment in the mother’s eyes. And when they lifted the body over my head, I heard my neighbor say that I was upset. She looked at me and told me not to worry, I was not her. I will be fine. I could not have been more misunderstood as I was not thinking of myself, but was feeling the pain of the mother who screamed all the way down the hall.

The next day, after overcoming the fevers, the nurses, and the bloody bathroom, I left the hospital to go home. I felt no pain in my stomach, but felt a bit weak. The diarrhea had stopped. I got home and slept. The next morning, I thought that I would walk up to Karen’s house ten minutes away to say goodbye to her grandmother who was leaving. I made it 4 minutes and turned back. My head spinning like a top. I slept some more, unable to move. I couldn’t focus.

Alba called and said she wanted to take me to a doctor in San Pedro, her specialist. I told her I was fine; I just needed to sleep. She came anyway and hour later and put me in the back of a borrowed car. Her doctor told me I was very sick with a gastronomical infection and severe dehydration on top of that. He suggested a stay in a hospital for the night and maybe the next few days. Five liters of saline I should drink through my veins before I would be considered able to leave.

We drove to Siguantepeque in the borrowed car, Alba, me, her mother, and her cousin. I collapsed after unsuccessfully trying to pee on the side of the highway and passed out in the car. We made it to Taulabe, which is right before Siguantepeque and rushed into a clinic there to connect my veins to the clear juice, an emergency attempt to revive me. The doctor reluctantly connected me, but said I had to leave the clinic after my first bag of saline. I was a gringo with different wiring than Latinos and he was afraid to treat me. Ten minutes later I had sucked down a bag and we were back in the car.

Soon after, Goldon, the cousin, was carrying me into a new hospital, a very nice hospital. It was white. It was clean, and it was cold. The twenty year old nurses brought me blankets. They wore little white skirts, with matching white stockings, little white nurse caps, and blue cardigan sweaters. One took my temp, while one took my pulse, while one worked on the IV, and the other asked how I felt. I felt like I was in heaven all of a sudden. Not good I said. I am dying. They all babied me and Alba rolled her eyes.

Alba booked us the private room with two beds, a private bath, and a TV, so she could stay the night and watch over me. The nurse brought us towels, soaps, and tooth brush kits so we could clean up. After Alba’s mother left, and Alba rolled off to sleep in the other bed, I flipped on my personal reading light and read till two. During the night, the nurse, Noami, would sneak into my room in the dark, afraid that she might disrupt me, and would politely ask if she could take my blood pressure. Then after working to save my life, she would apologize for the inconvenience and sneak out.

In the morning, my nurses quietly shuffled in and went to work on me. They ran all tests of blood, urine, stool, and took my temp, blood pressure, and order for lunch. I spent most of the time reading and sleeping, but feeling much better. I took a shower with a bag over the IV in my arm. Hot water! Where was I and what was this place? Lunch came and I ate veggie soup with rice, and a piece of baked chicken breast. The fresh watermelon juice washed it down, and sliced melon followed for desert. It was delicious and I asked for more. Ten minutes later I had another tray full of the same to enjoy, and I finished off that one as well. I had three more hours before I finally got to go home.

I liked the hospital. Better than any hospital I had been in, in the states and I think I will go there first, the next time I am sick.

I got better, and made it to Alba’s sister’s house for two more days of IV connection and TV. I finally took the bus back home to Cortes this morning after a week of infirmary. I got back to my lovely apartment, my big bed, and all the emails from friends. I am still sleepy…

Brian

This Was February

Well I cannot even remember the last time I wrote to all of you which probably means I should have written a long time ago. I apologize to those of you whom I owe emails. My life here in Honduras has gotten really good, but once again really busy, and fast. I know that no one thinks life down here is fast, and it’s not, if you are retired in your private home on the white sandy beach coast. But I am not there yet, so I am going to share with you the life of the renegade volunteer/ photographer who is now living out of a bus more than his room.

After the last time we talked, I had the privilege of being visited by my mother who came down for a week. I think I traveled more with her than anyone. We started in San Pedro, went to Cortes to meet all my friends, Back to San Pedro, to La Guama where I worked (more on that later), to Tegucigalpa, to Siguantepeque, to San Pedro where she departed. All this in 10 days. After she left, I returned to work, then to Cortes, Then San Pedro, Then Tegucigalpa, then San Pedro, and Now Tegucigalpa again. Unfortunately there is no Internet on the long bus rides across the country, but I have finished reading four more books. I am running out mom, you’re going to need to bring more! If anyone’s got a good book for me, send it with mom.

So, Buses. Buses in Honduras are quite the experience. If you are wanting to go anywhere in the city, then you can climb aboard an early 90s reminiscent of your childhood school bus. It is still yellow on the outside, and slightly modified on the inside. The seats never changed, at all. In fact they are the originals, only without the padding and with more bare springs (I found out after sitting in one the other day and ripping the seat of my new pants all the way down before I got home. And No one told me I was flailing to the wind!). There is a boy to take your money as your board through the turn stall they have installed. Windows have curtains they never wash, and the music is the same station in every bus, I believe the same song at any time of the day, and the road is sure to be bumpy. I love it. The people are always quiet on the bus, and stare straight ahead, tired from the hard day. They smile when you smile at them, and they always give seats up to ladies with babies and ladies with age.
Rapidito buses in San Pedro are to go from colony to colony. They are called Rapiditos because they race at high speeds through city traffic, drive on sidewalks, shoulders, yards, and the middle of other lanes, just to make sure you reach your destination in the least amount of time so they can pick up another load. These buses are like mini mini vans with seats they have put in where there should be no seats. Everything is a seat in a Rapidito and you pile in 20 to the 10 person space. It’s a great way to get to know your neighbor.
Cross-country Private buses are huge charter buses. The Hedman Alas Company has buses to Tegus, where the luxury is better than a plane. When you are in the plush first-class style seats, you can relax and watch a movie on the many monitors from the ceiling and bask in the air conditioning. You can enjoy the free snack bar and drink service offered by the steward onboard, and you can use the on-board lavatory if need be. I don’t take this bus, but I hear it’s nice. My cross country is in Rey Del Oro, which probably could have been a Hedman 20 years ago. It now has busted seats, smells of stale food and cookies, and the drivers think it is a sports car when driving around blind curves. They stop at every town and fill up until the standing room is gone and then try to put passengers in your breathing space. I love when I try to get off with my backpack and I start for the front ten minutes before my stop so I have time to squeeze through the thirty bodies in the aisle in front of me. But they get me where I want to go even when they do break down, it’s just hours later. I plan for the worst and always leave early.

On days when I am not traveling, I am recuperating and haven’t had much time in the internet. But, exciting things have been happening here.

For those of you who checked out the documentary and the website, which is getting updated still, we will be having screenings in Down Town San Diego all April. Check it out. We have finished the church in La Esperanza and I have been going to the services to get to know the people again. Many of the kids will eventually be in our school. I am still working with the orphan girls to get them into University. Our first try did not work as they had to move and get jobs during matriculation. I also finally fixed up the old den a bit. I built some pine wood shelves in the kitchen and bathroom on my day off before going to San Pedro to get Adam.

Adam is a friend of Joel and mine from San Diego and has come to spend six months with me and learn Spanish. He just got here and I have already dragged him to Tegucigalpa. He had one night in the Apartment, but said it was nice. He bought a bed the first day here and had it delivered that night. My neighbor bought a bed and has loaned me his old one. It rocks. It is so big and comfy. I am sure after I see the chiropractor I will sleep like a baby! I am in Tegus to see the Chiropractor, The only one in Honduras, and he is Canadian. But I am told he can help.

I really love it down here. I took a job doing photography and Brochure design for a national park down here and got paid a little, which was great! But I had to turn down the contract for their video because they tried to cheat me on it.

I cannot think of anywhere else I would rather be right now except for making a movie with Joel, Lowell, and Daniel. Watched Flagpop.com videos the other night and guys, they are amazing! Or I could be in Gma’s house eating Strawberry short cake. But other than that, Life is fantastic and I wish you all could come down and meet my friends and neighbors. For the next few weeks, I hope not to have much planned, but think I will be going to Siguantepeque to help another Work and Witness group, hanging out in Cortes, shooting video of Cocal Gracias for the website, and taking photos of a new ministry in San Pedro to feed the dump kids there. I hope to hear from all of you… Brian